One of my most adored vintage Vegas signs has recently been restored with over 800 feet of absolutely perfect pink neon! The iconic Moulin Rouge exhibit has always been one of the highlights of any trip I take to the Neon Museum for several reasons.
First, the graceful swooping letters, inspired by the googie style of architecture, make me swoon. I've always had a love affair with design from this space-age era which transformed into the well known mid-century modern style. Although, they were previously scrambled to accommodate their monumental size in the Neon Boneyard, they are now in their rightful place representing a coming of age for the city of Las Vegas.
Next, you must understand the significant history of the establishment. The Moulin Rouge opened in 1955 and was the first racially integrated hotel/casino in Las Vegas. Just imagine, prior to it's opening, black entertainers such as Sammy Davis Jr. and Ella Fitzgerald could sell out shows with their name in lights on the strip, but were not allowed to enter through the front doors. The Moulin Rouge was the only casino where black and white entertainers could mix and mingle.
Lastly, the Moulin Rouge sign was designed by one of the few female sign designers of the time, Betty Willis. Betty also designed the most famous sign in Las Vegas, the Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas sign and has thus influenced the design of modern Las Vegas.
Unfortunately, the swanky Moulin Rouge had a short life in the spotlight and shuttered less than FIVE MONTHS after it's star studded opening. If I close my eyes and sip an icy cold martini, I can imagine what it must have been like to be dazzled by a 2am heart stopping performance of the Tropi Can Can dancers followed by an early morning impromptu jam session with Sinatra, Louis Armstrong, Billie Holliday or Sammy. The exact cause of the demise of the Moulin Rouge is unclear but is likely a mix of "bad management, bad location, bad timing and bad luck," according to Michael Green, professor of history at the College of Southern Nevada. If you are interested in reading more about the significant history of the Moulin Rouge, here is a great article in the Smithsonian Magazine; The Vegas HotSpot That Broke All the Rules
Alas, our opportunity to experience this sliver of time has passed. The Moulin Rouge padlocked their doors in October of 1955. In 2003 the vacant building was damaged by fire and was then demolished in 2010 after yet another fire. Thanks to preservationists, however, we can catch a glimpse of one of the relics from this influential establishment. In 2009 the Moulin Rouge sign was moved to The Neon Museum and on September 16th, 2020 the iconic sign was restored and re-electrified.
As a visual effects artist and Vegas enthusiast, The Neon Museum tops my list of places to visit in Las Vegas. I have lost count of how many times I have visited but I do remember my first time was in 2012. I plan to return on my next trip to Vegas and marvel at the re-electrified Moulin Rouge. Plan your own visit to the Neon Museum virtually or in-person. I wonder if they will mind if we bring our own martini and a chair to sit, stare and let our imaginations conjure up a return to an unprecedented era in Las Vegas' history.
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